Rome - Italy
Walking through Rome feels like you are in a museum where time stands still. Yet life is all around you, waiting to be enjoyed.
In the process of writing this post I wondered: How do you capture the atmosphere in one of the oldest cities in Europe? How do you connect past and present without losing sight of either? After all, being in Rome feels like traversing a museum, but the exhibits are not stuck behind glass. They are very much alive. Indeed, the city is so saturated with historic sites that certain buildings would be unique highlights in any other place, but are just a side note here. For a visitor that means the chance to discover a new highlight behind every corner.
Ultimately, I divided the city into parts, each reflecting a different era of history and thereby unique experiences in the presence. This is not a travel blog post with a to do list, more so a collection of impressions that make up the eternal city today.
After the end of the Roman Empire, the city slowly came under control of the Popes and emerged as the center of the Papal States in what is now the country of Italy. A walk through the area around the microcosm of the Vatican gives you a sense how, while the source and extent of power changed, Rome remained one of the influential centers of the continent. There is the Vatican itself of course and across the Via della Conciliazione sits Castel Sant’Angelo.
The list for sightseeing in Rome is long, but the Castel is one of my favorite places because of the spectacular views from the top across the city and Vatican. By walking through it, you get a quick history tour. Roman temple, papal palace, prison, escape route – history itself condenses within these imposing walls. From the building complex it is a short walk on the wide Via della Conciliazione towards the Vatican, with the dome of the St.Peter's Basilica looming in the background. Watching the sun go down, sitting on this visual axis between the two building complexes, listening to one of the street artists and watching the crowd walking by was one of my favorite moments. Two older guys were playing Pink Floyd’s Shine on you crazy diamond, a married couple was taking wedding pictures and the crowds were enjoying the walk along the river.
Walking up the avenue towards St. Peter's Square is a surreal experience, because the scale of buildings only slowly becomes comprehensible. While you can see the dome of the basilica from the other side of the avenue, only once you walk closer its size becomes apparent. The Piazza in front of the basilica is already enormous, and since Peter's Dome was built on a hill, it only becomes bigger as you walk closer. Opinions may differ, but even for someone like me, with no religious affiliation, it's an awe-inspiring sight. The inside of the basilica again contradicts any ideas of proportions one is used to, suddenly one starts to feel very very small. The place does hold a special energy, especially once you realize that most popes are buried here with their history of ruling most of Europe. Come early though, the line gets very long.
Compared to the vast open spaces and wide avenues of the area around the Vatican, the city center of Rome feels like a maze. Add the crowds to it, and it can become overwhelming at times. But if you pick streets a bit off the beaten path you’ll be rewarded with great discoveries and a little less shoving around. In contrast to the streets around the Vatican, the city center seems more vivid, with less buildings meant to suggest heavenly power, but a more tangible sense of past time.
Nothing captures the atmosphere of this area as well as the Trevi Fountain. Walking through little streets, you hear it before you see it, and suddenly, after turning a corner there is this giant fountain in front of you. It is actually the backside of a building, which makes the entire architecture even more surprising. The piazza around it is rather small, it almost feels squeezed in. To me, that made its effect even stronger though, as Oceanus towers above everything in the tight space. Yes, it is always spoiled by a huge crowd but still - go and take in all its glory.
Similarly, you emerge onto Piazza Navona from small streets, but in contrast to the Trevi Fountain the space is enormous. The former site of a Roman stadium became Bernini’s masterpiece, featuring fountains, palaces and a church. Filmmakers love the atmosphere of the area due to its quintessential “Rome-ness”. The apartment from Eat, Pray, Love is right around the corner. Another wonderful spot to catch the golden hour dipping the white buildings into a magical orange.
In contrast, Piazza del Popolo historically has not been a place of stopping, as it served as a gate into the city. While it does not invite you to sit down as Piazza Navona does, it is still worth a visit to look down each of the avenues and get a sense for how big the city has been in past times too. On the western side of the Piazza then lies the entrance to the Villa Borghese with its vast gardens. Especially on a hot day this is a great escape from the sun and in the park you can leave the bustling city behind and take a break. From its terrace you'll have a great view above the Rome and again get a sense for the size of the city.
An attempt to capture Rome’s atmosphere today would be incomplete without a reference to the part of the city that shows the signs of its first place of power and influence. In all honesty, in times of mass tourism I think it is naive to complain about crowds, but be aware that everyone wants to see the Colosseum and Pantheon and that is exactly how the area feels like. Personally, I enjoyed the lesser known sites to be much more insightful in getting a sense for the Roman Rome. At the Portico d’Ottavia there is a small alley of ruins left that gives you a sense of the urbanization of ancient Rome, and very close to you can walk over the only remaining original Roman bridge to Tiber Island. The Romans built several temples here, beginning the process that resulted in the construction of the buildings that remain on the island today.
After all the walking and exploring Trastevere is the place to recharge with great food and wine. In contrast to the Vatican and city center, this has traditionally been a working class neighborhood. Everything about it seems much more down to earth, as if you left the museum and are now where the actual people live. The atmosphere is created by its presence and less so the past. It gets crowded in the evening due to the bars and restaurants, but that shouldn't stop you from going and enjoying it.
Overall, Rome is a visit for all the senses. You probably won't feel relaxed afterwards, but you'll be rewarded with a lot of new impressions. After all, there aren't many places where a simple walk through the city leaves you in awe. Make sure you go before peak summer to avoid the heat!
— Rome, Italy —
Great for… Feeling in a museum that is alive // Eating // Taking “Vacation in Italy” pictures // Seeing the Eat,Pray,Love Apartment
Not your vibe if… Crowds are a problem // Breakfast is your most important meal of the day // You could not care less about history
How to get there… Rome has two airports (Fiumicino and Ciampino). Be aware that Ciampino is far from the city and has terrible public transport options. The city's main train station is right in the center and most pleasant to arrive at.
Prices… Airbnb (125 per night) // Espresso (1.50) // Pizza+Wine (11)
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