Naples - Italy
Naples is not pretty. In fact, when I told people the destination for my weekend trip the reaction was mostly just a "Why Naples?"
On first impressions that is not a surprise. Naples coastline is blocked by a decaying harbor, the smells in the little alleys change between trash and exhaust fumes of the scooters, and most old buildings look like they are about to crumble away momentarily. As if it needs just one more earthquake caused by the close volcanos for the city to be gone.
Still, Naples is worth a visit - and this text will give an honest review why.
An attempt at understanding Naples' current state starts in the past. Founded by the Greeks, the city has always been an important harbor on the Italian coast. Through time it became the capital of first the Duchy, then the kingdom of Naples. Its cultural influence grew with its political importance. The ancient ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum shape much of our understanding of Greek and Roman life, local cuisine became popular far beyond city limits, and Caravaggio's work in Naples started an artistic revolution. Walking through the streets you can sense this former Grandeur and see it in monumental churches, palaces and decorated piazzas. But Naples wouldn't be Naples without the current sense of decay which creates its enchanting atmosphere today.
We took one day to walk through Naples and get a sense of it. Starting with breakfast at The Florist Bar with an all locally sourced breakfast, our first stop was the botanical garden. Entering from the noisy Via Foria, it's a quiet oasis within the city. Perfect for a little stroll and watching the lemons ripe on the citrus tree collection. From there, our walk took us through the Centro Storico, a maze of small alleys with little piazzas in between. Rightfully, the area is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, weaving current urban development into Naples’ heritage. Life is crammed together here, making the area suffocatingly local. A Christian icon at every corner, pictures of Diego Maradona, who is basically on the same level as a saint, decoration in the color of the local soccer club - combined with the laundry hanging between buildings, the little bars and restaurants - interrupted by giant old churches and palaces. A feast for the senses, at times almost too much. But life is being truly lived here, it's not changed for the tourists walking through. After all, one of the defining experiences in Naples is jumping out of the way as kids blast past you on their scooters.
Above Naples lies the Castel Sant'Elmo, with wonderful views across the city, bay, and the Vesuvio. It is easier to take the subway up to Vanvitelli station, saving you a tiring walk up the entire hill. As you emerge from the narrow roads onto the viewpoint you'll get a sense of how big the metropolitan area of Naples really is. The stairs back into town take you through the Spanish quarter. Here, similarly to the Centro Storico, alleys are tight, buildings old, and bars and cafes at every corner. In contrast, the quarter's history is defined by its purpose to house soldiers during the Spanish occupation of the city, hence the military grid street system. From here it's a short walk to the Piazza del Plebiscito, where the Galleria Umberto and Palazzo Reale de Napoli give another sense of Naples' former influence and affluence.
At night the alleys in Centro Storico transform, life in Naples after all is not taking place in the cramped apartments, but outside. Our favorite dinner spot Trattoria Don Vincenzo was tucked away on a little Piazza, making it a cozy spot to enjoy the local cuisine. The center of nightlife in the city is Piazza Bellini. Surrounded by little stores and bars, the young crowd meets here.
Once done with the city, the islands in front of Naples provide a wonderful opportunity for day trips to swim and stroll around. Capri and Ischia are the main destinations for tourists and will offer beautiful beaches, villages and hikes. We decided on the less busy option and went to Procida. As it is often overshadowed by its famous neighbors, the island is much calmer and relaxed. Since it is relatively small, you can really just walk from town to town, or snack to snack with stops to jump in the water in between. Starting at the main harbor, it is a short walk to the other side of the island, where the Marina Corricella awaits you. There are a few cafes and restaurants down by the harbor, an old monastery with a view over the bay and a few beaches to lay on. All in all a wonderful place to float through the day and lay in the sun. For the sunset we walked to the other side of the island, and then took a little bus back to the ferry.
Another must see is of course Pompeii. You won't escape the crowds here, but it is still worth it. The area was preserved so well that it still feels like walking through a city. Standing in the courtyards of the Roman mansions we were fantasizing how our lives would have looked back then. I've never been to ancient ruins that allow you to become part of the past that easily. After all, you can still see vulgar jokes written on walls or sit in the theaters where people got entertained on the weekends. The train to Pompeii leaves from the city center in Naples and takes a breathtaking route by the sea, make sure you sit on the right side of the carriage for the best view.
All together, Naples will never be the cliche TikTok Amalfi coast destination. As a reward for being brave and visiting, you will see behind the Italy cliches and get a real sense for the South of the country, including prices that don't make you poor after a dinner out. A bit later in the year it will still be warm, but not overcrowded. Perfect to escape as fall begins.
— Naples, Italy —
Great for… A trip with friends to wine and dine // Exploring Italy beyond it's facade // Having a sense of being in Latin America, but in Europe
Not your vibe if… Your idea of Italy is the Amalfi coast // Kids speeding right next to you on their scooter scares you // You can't stand smelly cities
How to get there… Naples Airport is just a 20 minutes bus ride from the center. Alternatively, the Italian train system is well setup to make the city a stop on a trip down the coast.
Prices… Aperol (1.50), Pizza (8), Airbnb (100 per night), Beach (free), Cappuccino (1.50).
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